Ants, mice and other nuisance pests
Common animals that bother hives, simple non-chemical ways to reduce the risk, and when a pest is something more serious.
Most animals that bother hives are a nuisance rather than a disaster, and a strong colony usually defends itself. Problems tend to show up in small, weak or poorly sited hives, so the best protection is a healthy colony on a sound stand. For anything that looks like a serious disease or an exotic pest, see Exotic bee pests and threats and the Diagnosis guide.
Quick table
| Pest | Signs | First fix |
|---|---|---|
| Ants | Ants on or in the hive, bees attacking intruders | Lift the hive onto a stand and keep the area around it clear |
| Mice | Chewed comb, droppings, a nest in the box, mostly in weak or stored hives | Fit a metal mouse guard and store spare gear sealed |
| Cane toads (where they occur) | Toads sitting near the entrance at night | Raise the hive well off the ground |
| European wasps | Wasps entering the hive or robbing | Reduce the entrance in winter |
| Birds | Bees picked off in flight near the apiary | Usually minor. Watch and move on |
Safety rule: no household insecticides
Don’t use household or garden insecticides in or on a hive, or on the stand legs. Chemicals made for other pests can harm bees and contaminate honey and wax. This page names no chemical product, because none has been confirmed as registered for pest control around beehives. Use the non-chemical steps below, and ask your state department if you need more.
Ants, mice and cane toads
These three have one thing in common: weak colonies and low, cluttered sites attract them.
- Use a stand. Keep hives off the ground, so that ants and toads have a harder time reaching the entrance.
- Keep the area clear. Cut back grass and branches touching the stand, and remove hiding places near the hives.
- Fit a mouse guard. Choose a metal guard with openings just big enough for bees. Check the joins between boxes for gaps.
- Store gear sealed. Keep spare boxes and frames of comb in a lidded stack, a sealed bin or a shed.
- Look at the hive. Ants, mice and toads are a sign to check the colony’s strength, feeding and queen first.
For advice on toads or ants in your area, ask your state department or local club (see Clubs and associations).
European wasps and other wasps
Signs. Wasps come to a hive for food, and repeated attacks can weaken it. Look for wasps flying into the entrance, or fighting and dead bees there.
What to do.
- Reduce the entrance in winter. A narrower entrance helps the bees keep wasps out. Biosecurity Tasmania gives a suggested width.
- Keep hives strong. Don’t leave honey or comb exposed, because wasps are drawn to it.
- Nests near homes. Biosecurity Tasmania recommends a registered pest controller to find and destroy them, because multiple stings can be life-threatening. Don’t try it alone.
Reporting. Rules differ by state. If you are unsure what a wasp is, or you think it is a pest not yet in your area, check your state department’s page.
Birds
Several birds eat honey bees. The rainbow bee-eater is one, and the National Bee Pest Surveillance Program tests its pellets for pest bees. If bee numbers drop, check the hive for other causes first.
Everything else
If you are not sure whether an insect near your hive matters, take a clear photo and ask your club or your state’s bee biosecurity officer. A mite that doesn’t look like varroa, an unusual bee or a large hornet is different. Contact your state department.
What next
- Stand the hive up, then fit the guards that suit your area before the season changes.
- Note any pest on your inspection records. See Your first inspection.
Sources
Every fact on this page was checked against at least two independent sources.
- European and English waspsBiosecurity Tasmania (NRE Tas)Official
- Pests and diseases in honey beesWA Department of Primary Industries and Regional DevelopmentOfficial
- The National Bee Pest Surveillance ProgramScience Australia (Curious)Research and industry